Before you open Alibaba, you must understand how to get jeans manufactured correctly to ensure your brand’s success. You need to do your homework. This is where most new brands fail. They try to build a house without a blueprint. Manufacturing jeans is not like printing T-shirts; it involves fabric shrinkage, complex washing chemicals, and specific hardware. Without professional preparation, you will likely be ignored by good factories or receive samples that look nothing like what you imagined.
Phase 1: Pre-Sourcing Preparation
Define Your Market Position & Budget
Don’t just tell a factory, “I want high-quality jeans.” In manufacturing, “quality” is subjective. You need to define it with data.
Pro Tip: Visualize this as a Quadrant
- Fast Fashion: Low cost, trendy styles, standard fabric (e.g., Zara style).
- Workwear: Durable, heavy fabric, strong stitching, minimal washing (e.g., Dickies style).
- Premium Selvedge: Red-line denim, vintage looms, raw/unwashed, for enthusiasts (e.g., Levi’s Vintage Clothing).
- Designer: Complex distressed washes, unique cuts, custom hardware.
Calculate Your Target Price: Don’t ask the factory, “How much will this cost?” Instead, calculate what you can afford.
- Set your Retail Price (e.g., $100).
- Your Target FOB Price (Factory Price) should typically be 1/4 to 1/5 of the retail price ($20 – $25).
- This covers fabric, trims, labor, and the factory’s profit.
Use this target price to find the right manufacturing hub. If your target is $8, go to Bangladesh, not Italy
Create a "Denim-Grade" Tech Pack
This is the only language factories understand. A standard clothing Tech Pack isn’t enough. A Jeans Tech Pack must include these specific details:
- BOM (Bill of Materials): Unlike a T-shirt, jeans need hardware.
- Shank Button: The main button at the waist (usually metal).
- Rivets: The metal studs that reinforce pocket corners.
- Zipper: Specify “Metal Teeth” and the size (e.g., YKK #5).
- Leather Patch: The brand label on the back waist.
- Wash Standard: This is the hardest part to describe. Never just write “Vintage Blue”. You must provide Reference Photos or send a physical pair of jeans to the factory.
- Stitching: Specify where you want a Chain Stitch (usually on the waistband and hem) versus an Overlock Stitch. Also, specify the thread color (often tobacco or gold).
Your Secret Weapon: The Denim Glossary
Factory sales reps will judge if you are a “pro” within the first three emails. If you use these terms correctly, they will take you seriously and offer better pricing:
- Oz (Ounce): The weight of the denim. Example: “I am looking for a 12-14 oz mid-weight fabric.”
- Selvedge: A high-quality fabric woven on old shuttle looms with a self-finished edge.
- Yoke: The V-shaped section on the back of the jeans that determines the fit over the hips.
- Sanforized: Crucial. This means the fabric has been pre-shrunk. Always ask: “Is this fabric Sanforized? What is your tolerance for shrinkage?”.
- Crocking: The transfer of color when rubbed (dry or wet). Ask: “What is the crocking rating for this fabric?”.
Phase 2: How to Get Jeans Manufactured
Once you have your design and budget, it’s time to find a partner. In the denim industry, we say: “Good jeans are washed, not sewn.”. Therefore, your top criteria for picking a factory must be their ability to handle Washing and Finishing.
FPP vs. CMT: Which Model is Best?
- CMT (Cut, Make, Trim): You buy the fabric and send it to the factory. They just cut and sew.
FPP (Full Package Production): The factory handles everything: sourcing fabric, hardware, sewing, washing, and packing.
Why Startups Should Choose FPP: General guides might tell you CMT is cheaper, but for jeans, CMT is risky for beginners. The reason is Shrinkage. If you buy 1,000 meters of denim and it shrinks 15% instead of the expected 10%, the jeans will be too tight. In CMT, the factory says: “Your fabric, your problem.” In FPP, the factory bought the fabric, so they are responsible for testing shrinkage. If the size is wrong, it’s their fault .
Choosing the Right Location
Here is a cheat sheet for global manufacturing hubs:
Location | Pros | Cons | Best For |
China | All-Rounder. Mature supply chain, great access to hardware/fabric, fast tech. | Costs are rising. Strict environmental rules. | Premium brands, Fast Fashion, Functional denim. |
Bangladesh | Cheapest. Huge capacity and workforce. | Longer lead times. Complex washes can be harder to achieve. | High volume, budget-friendly brands. |
Turkey | Quality & Speed. Close to Europe, world-class washing tech. | Higher price (more than China). | European high-end & premium brands. |
Pakistan | Cotton Powerhouse. Great for heavy fabrics. | Political/Economic stability can vary. | Mid-range brands, Workwear. |
Vetting the Factory: The 5 Golden Questions
On Alibaba, every jeans factory says “Yes, we can do it.” Ask these specific questions to uncover the truth:
- The Laundry Question: “Do you have an in-house laundry, or do you outsource washing?”
Why ask: In-house laundries offer better control and faster samples. Outsourcing often leads to inconsistent colors. - The Shrinkage Question: “What is your standard shrinkage testing process before cutting bulk fabric? What is your tolerance?”
Why ask: If they say “we guess based on experience,” run away. Pros say: “We wash-test every roll and adjust patterns accordingly.” - The Money Question: “What is the sampling fee? Is it refundable if I place a bulk order?”
Standard: Sample fees are usually 3-5x the unit price but should be refundable on orders over 300-500 pieces.
The Compliance Question: “Can you provide SGS or Intertek reports for the fabric? Specifically for AZO dyes and Formaldehyde.”
Why ask: Denim uses heavy dyes. You need to ensure they are safe and legal for sale in Western markets.
The Flexibility Question: “I know your MOQ is 500. But for a first trial, can we do 100-200 pieces? We are willing to pay a surcharge.”
Phase 3: Sampling & Development
Many beginners think sampling is just “making one pair to see how it looks.” Wrong. In denim, sampling is an iterative process to test fit, shrinkage, and wash effects.
The 4 Key Milestones of Sampling
Don’t expect perfection on the first try. Plan for these stages:
- Proto Sample: Checks the design and basic fit. Might use substitute fabric.
- Fit Sample: The most critical step. Uses the correct fabric and correct wash. You must check the fit on a model (Does the back gap when sitting? Are the thighs too tight?).
- PP Sample (Pre-Production): The final confirmation. The factory cannot start cutting bulk fabric until you sign this sample.
- TOP Sample (Top of Production): The first few pairs taken off the actual production line to prove quality before shipping.
The "Leg Panel" Hack (Saving Money)
Washing jeans is expensive. If you make a full pair of jeans every time you want to tweak the color, you will waste weeks and hundreds of dollars.
The Hack: Ask the factory to sew just the tubes of the pant legs (no waist, no zipper) and wash 3-4 tubes in different shades (Light, Medium, Dark). Benefit: You can pick your favorite shade immediately without making full samples.
Conquering Shrinkage
Regular cotton shrinks 3-5%. Stretch denim can shrink 12-15% after a heavy stone wash. Rookie Mistake: Calculating the shrinkage yourself and telling the factory to “make the pattern bigger.” Don’t do this. The Right Way: Give the factory a “Washed Measurement Chart.” Tell them: “I don’t care how big you cut it; I want the finished pants to be these exact measurements.”.
How to Give Professional Comments
Rookie Feedback | Professional Feedback (Actionable) |
“The legs are too tight.” | “Thigh measurement needs +1.5cm at 1 inch below the crotch.” |
“The color looks wrong.” | “The wash is too yellow. Please reduce the Potassium Spray intensity or reduce the sulfur dye in the tint.” |
“It’s too long.” | “Reduce Inseam by 2cm. Keep the hem height at 1.5cm.” |
“Button is in the wrong spot.” | (Send a photo with a red arrow) “Move the main shank button down 0.5cm as marked in the photo.” |
Phase 4: Production & QC (Quality Control)
Once the fabric is cut, there is no turning back. You are no longer a designer; you are now a supervisor.
The Denim Production Flow
- Cut & Sew: The jeans are sewn in their raw, rigid state. They look huge and dark.
- Dry Process: Manual work done before washing. Includes hand-sanding, whiskering, and distressing.
- Wet Process (Washing): The jeans go into giant industrial machines for desizing, enzyme stone washing, and bleaching.
- Finishing: Thread trimming, installing buttons/rivets, pressing, and packing.
Expert QC Checklist
- Shade Sorting: Jeans washed in the same machine can come out in slightly different shades. Require “Shade Sorting” (Group A, B, C) and ensure the left leg and right leg of the same pair are from the same shade group .
- Streaks / Marble Marks: Look for unnatural white lines that look like cracks. This is a major defect caused by uneven machine spinning.
- Back Staining: Check the inside pocket bags. If they are dyed heavy blue, the factory didn’t clean the jeans properly after washing. This will stain your customers’ legs
The "Leg Twist" Defect
This is when the side seam of the jeans twists around to the front of the shin. The Standard: Lay the jeans flat. If the seam twists more than 1 inch (2.5cm), it is a defect (unless you are intentionally making a vintage reproduction).
Hardware Stress Test
- Pull Test: Yank on the buttons. If they pop off, it’s a safety hazard.
- Corrosion: Check copper buttons for green rust and zippers for sticking due to acid wash damage.
FAQ
Q1: How long does it really take? (Lead Time) Don’t just believe “3 months.”
- Sourcing & Quoting: 2-3 weeks.
- Sampling & Corrections: 4-8 weeks (The longest part).
- Fabric Production: 3-4 weeks.
- Sewing & Washing: 4-6 weeks.
- Total: Plan for 3-5 months for your first collection.
Q2: How do I find factories for small orders (50-100 pairs)?
- Use Stock Fabric: Tell the factory you will use whatever fabric they have on the shelf.
- Off-Peak: Ask when their slow season is.
- Sample Room Production: Ask if they can produce your order in their sample room (higher cost per unit, but lower minimums).
Q3: What is “Eco-Wash”? Traditional denim washing uses a lot of water. Ask if the factory has Laser machines (to replace manual sanding) or Ozone machines (to replace bleach). This is a great selling point for modern brands.
Conclusion
Getting jeans manufactured isn’t a one-time transaction; it’s a relationship. Even big brands like Levi’s face issues with inconsistent washes. Remember the three rules: Do your homework, Choose jeans supplier, and maintain Strict QC.
If you need a reliable manufacturing partner to guide you through this process and ensure high-quality production, please contact us today to discuss your project.